Over the summer we have not been idle! We have taken video footage of our wide assortment of large and semi mature trees throughout the growing season to capture the beauty of their spring flower, summer foliage and autumn colour. We have flown a drone over our 200 acre nursery to show the extent of our facility and our three minute video takes you through our production and sales processes to get a flavour of what to expect when you visit Barcham.

There are plenty of tree brokers shipping trees in from the continent without any care for biosecurity but not many actual tree growers in the UK. Our video demonstrates how we start from acorns and finish by providing large healthy trees with instant impact that are perfect for screening, avenues, urban streets or private residential gardens.

If our video wets your appetite, why not phone us to make an appointment to come up and take a look? We are the largest container tree nursery out there and with two Royal Warrants we have quite a collection of trees to show you!

Please click HERE to view

It has been so windy over the last twelve months, especially in the north of the country, with storm Henry now clobbering our shores. A great way to diffuse wind in a garden is to plant trees. If you look at a mature tree in the wind you will see that its outer edges of foliage, twigs or branches will be moving whilst the inner trunk is still. A trees outer edge will diffuse the power of the wind to take the strain off the central stem and so hold itself up in strong winds.

One of the best examples of wind diffusing is the Black Pine, Pinus nigra Austriaca or sometimes referred to as just Pinus nigra. Its long evergreen needles are superb at stilling the air and I always remember walking passed one on a very windy day in Huntingdon and being taken aback at how the wind suddenly stopped while I was behind it. A good indicator of a tree that can provide this service is to look for a coastal species which has evolved to take wind 24/7.

When picking trees for windy sites, always go for trees with low branches down their stems rather than ones with a long trunk. The more branches on a tree, the better the job of wind diffusing and the easier they will establish. Multi stemmed trees are bottom heavy and so hold themselves up better in strong winds than standard trees that are conversely top heavy and liable to bend or break when the wind catches them.

Pinus nigra Austriaca is a stout growing evergreen tree that is my pick for slowing down gusts of wind in your garden. As most stormy weather comes along in the winter months, the fact that it’s evergreen is crucial. However, they do make big trees and planting them close together weakens them over time so plant at least 10 metres apart and be aware that they may grow to over 50 feet! Like most evergreens they are also dependant on a well-draining soil in which to thrive.

For more information on what is the right tree to choose for your garden, please contact us on [email protected] or phone us on 01353 720950

Acer campestre, our native Field Maple, is a medium sized tree that boasts many clones to suit differing aspects. The seedling tree has a spreading but rounded crown and rough bark whereas clones such as Lienco and Elegant produce stiffly ascending branches that make them for suitable for urban locations where space is at a premium. Either way the leaf size and colour is the same, green in summer and a lovely buttercup yellow in the autumn before leaf drop.

With the Queens 90th birthday this year what better commemorative tree is there to plant than Acer campestre Queen Elizabeth! This upright native Field Maple is a versatile tree and its narrow form makes it an ideal choice for gardens or avenues where uniformity is needed. A row of 90 may be in order!

If you are after a bit of seasonal leaf colour Acer campestre Louisa Red Shine flushes red before hardening to a dark green. This is repeated with every new flush of growth throughout the growing season making this one of the most attractive options. It forms a more rounded crown when compared to its street form counterparts but remains a very tidy option.

One of the most well-known and popular clonal selections is Acer campestre Elsrijk. However, at maturity it forms a rounded canopy like its parent rather than the oval habit it displays when it’s younger. If you are after a uniform line of Acer campestre, the Elsrijk clone will produce this effect whereas seedling Field Maple will all display slightly different characteristics.

For those of you with very little room to play with there is even a dwarfing clone, Acer campestre Nanum, which is top grafted onto an Acer campestre trunk to form a tight round headed ball of foliage that requires very little maintenance.

Still none the wiser?

You can’t go too far wrong with any of the above as they all thrive in the UK and grow well on most free draining soils. In my opinion the stand out clones are Acer campestre Elegant for towns and cities and Acer campestre Louisa Red Shine for gardens and parks. However, for this year, Acer campestre Queen Elizabeth may be the most apt choice!

We are frequently asked if our trees can be planted into decorative containers and kept happily on patios or driveways for many subsequent years. Anything is possible but this is solely dependent on the amount of soil volume the tree can access. The greater the soil volume, the longer the tree can be successfully grown within its confines.

Generally speaking, for a medium or large growing tree, a root system is going to access 30 cubic metres of soil availability to support its mature form. If it runs out of space for the roots to grow into the tree will gently subsist rather than grow actively. In smaller soil volumes the roots will colonize all available space to eventually become a block of wood with nowhere else to go and in this case it is very tricky to keep the tree going in terms of water and nutrients.

Regard a large tree in a container like a caged animal, too small an enclosure leads to terminal decline. You would be excused for thinking that a one metre cube container would be big enough when you see the size of it but this will only buy you up to 5 years of adequate growth before decline sets in.

Deciduous trees are easier to manage than evergreen ones as they drop their old leaves to refresh anew each spring. Evergreen trees can look tired very quickly and in severe winters the whole container volume can freeze up as it is all above ground level with no protective insulation that the ground would normally offer. It’s not the cold that gets the tree; it’s the fact that an evergreen cannot access water to sustain its winter foliage so in effect dies of drought. This process can be referred to as freeze drying.

Once the quality of the tree in a container has been lost it is very difficult to regain it. We never advise trying to grow trees in this way for the long term as results are invariably disappointing. Some varieties work better than others. Olive, Olea europaea, can last many years and sometimes even decades in the same container if the crown is routinely pruned in the spring and the watering / fertilizer regime is adequate. On the other end of the scale, flowering cherry or fruiting trees in general would not have the root space needed to develop a crop each year and have the shortest of shelf life before declining when kept in a container.

So my advice is to max out the pot size you are contemplating and not to have too great an expectation after 5 years or so! Every square centimetre of extra soil volume buys you more time…

And one other thing, your compost should be open and friable. If you filled your container with garden soil it would compact and slump over time and deprive your roots of oxygen. It’s not easy to get it right!

For more guidance on this feel free to call is on 01353 720950 or email us on [email protected]

This recent spell of wet weather is a challenging time for trees that find themselves in the wrong place. A tree seed germinates where it lands and can grow for years before a calamitous event comes along to kill it. Unlike animals, plants can’t just get up and move from their position if it turns against them and this is one of the reasons why it takes more than a million tree seeds in nature to produce one single mature specimen. Like Turtles, Trees adopt the ‘pot luck’ approach to reproduction and rest all their hopes on the volume of seed produced.

Tree roots need oxygen as well as water. Too much oxygen and they die of drought, too much water and they drown. Newly planted trees that have been in the ground for less than 5 years are more prone to suffer in waterlogged areas as their root systems are less expansive that established trees. If a recently planted tree is waterlogged it is important to dig drainage channels and get the water away from the drowning the root system. Prunus (Flowering Cherries) are particularly sensitive to being saturated whereas Malus (Flowering Crab Apples) are more tolerant, but in any case if the tree’s roots are under water for over a week this can be really bad news. In the worst case the tree simply dies but in many scenarios the trees flush a pale yellow in the spring and succumb to bacterial canker and ooze over a longer period before failing.

There are however some water specialists that can lengthen the odds. Willow (Salix), Alder (Alnus), Poplar (Populus) and Swamp Cypress (Taxodium) all like it wet and once established can tolerate waterlogged ground for several months when dormant. Please see our guide to these genus on the following link: www.barcham.co.uk/tree-finder/#wetland . This range can be particularly useful for gardens that are near rivers that routinely flood in winter.
If you are worried about the way your garden gets saturated in the winter you can always adopt an old Victorian planting tip by mound planting. Only half bury the container root system and raise the soil up and over the other half to get the root system above any flooding issues that may come along later. Be sure not to make a steep mound that can erode, graduate a couple of metres in width and plant the tree at the top of it. Ironically this means greater attention to detail on watering in the first spring and summer but this is nothing that one of our Tree Hydration Bags can’t sort out! Planting a tree too deep can exasperate flooding worries as the roots are pushed lower down into the water table and are therefore deprived of oxygen.

I hope this helps answer a few questions but remember we are only a phone call away for further information!

Trees are often blamed for subsidence or for roots rampaging through drains and services underground. In my experience most of these problems are caused by shrinkable clay soil types but a tree close by is an easy visible target to take the flack and give instant gratification for the insurance industry.

Having said this it is not wise to plant a tree that has the capacity to grow to beyond 20 feet within 10 metres of a building. Tree roots want an equal blend of both oxygen and water in which to thrive and colonize. Some large trees like Robinia pseudoacacia (False Acacia) and Populus alba (White Poplar) are a nightmare for sending up adventitious sucker growth from their extended root systems and have even been known to thrust up through your floorboards if the situation allows!

However, you can box clever on this! Sometimes it is nice to have trees growing close to buildings to soften the hard landscape as well as giving the opportunity for evergreen screening and privacy. There are two ways of achieving this without future ramifications. The first way is to keep a tree tamed. Tilia euchlora (Aphid Resistant Lime) has the capacity to grow to 60 feet tall by the same across and generally speaking a root system matches the trees canopy to anchor it and provide the water and nutrients to support its crown. You can keep a mature tree such as Tilia euchlora to a mere ten to fifteen foot high by routinely pruning back to the same point every winter, so reducing its need to produce a problematical root system to sustain it. This is sometimes referred to as pollarding. Alternatively you can pleach or espalier the crown back each year to a one dimensional frame for screening or formal aesthetics which gives you the same effect. The drawback is that your tamed tree will want to revert back to normal size whenever it gets the opportunity to do so! Tree taming requires routine yearly maintenance every winter!

The second way to safely plant trees close to houses and buildings is to choose trees with the capacity to grow no more than 20 feet at maturity. You would be best considering a species which is half shrub and half tree such as Photinia Red Robin, Ligustrum lucidum Excelsum Superbum or Ligustrum japonicum. These small garden trees are excellent for screening as they are also evergreen. In general the best practice is, the more distance you can allow when planting, the better, to be safe. We recommend pruning these types of trees, to keep them full and dense particularly if you are using for screening.

Choosing the right tree for its location is paramount and that’s where we come in! We have a wealth of experience top pick the correct choice, just e mail us a photo to [email protected] of where you want to plant and we will come back with suitable suggestions.

For such a large tree, Liquidambar styraciflua Worplesdon really is easy on the eye. Personally I think the Sweet Gum Worplesdon offers the most magnificent autumn colour, and I am yet to find a mature tree to beat it. I love the shape of the Liquidambar styraciflua Worplesdon leaf; weirdly I always remember it as the shape of a human’s hand. We have an established Sweet Gum planted outside our office and it is fantastic, throughout the whole growing season, it always attracts attention.

If you have the space to plant this beautiful large tree I wouldn’t hesitate and I am sure you would not be disappointed. As well as the beautiful colours the Liquidambar styraciflua Worplesdon faces you with in the autumn time, this stunning cultivar offers such interest in the winter when the leaves have fallen. Once the leaves has fallen the seeds on this Sweet Gum Worplesdon are fantastic, having just started in June I hadn’t noticed them until now. They look superb very much like the Horse Chestnut cases for the conkers but much smaller. When they hang on the end of the stalk they look like Christmas decorations on a tree resembling tear drops.

When Liquidambar styraciflua Worplesdon defoliates they can be easily identified in the winter time by the texture of the bark, whilst the Sweet Gum Worplesdon has a smooth gorgeous grey bark, its parent Liquidambar styraciflua has a corky texture. I would love to plant one in my garden, but sadly my small courtyard garden would not allow for one! For those with a smaller garden you could consider Liquidambar styraciflua Lane Roberts which has a columnar habit whilst maintaining the same leaf shape as the Sweet Gum Worplesdon.

Jodie Southgate.

Pyrus Calleryana Chanticleer is one of the most popular deciduous trees that we sell here at Barcham, and for good reason! If you want a tree that ticks all the boxes, i.e. shape, blossom and autumn colour… Then look no further, this tree could be the show stopper in your garden! Traditionally a tree that is selected for avenue planting, with its tall slender compact crown and with its strong formative growing habit, this tree gives every indication that it holds an award like the converted AGM (Award of Garden Merit) from the Royal Horticultural Society.

This North American favourite proves to be very popular when used as a stand-alone feature tree or used for screening purposes. The reason for the screening interest is that it boasts a very generous foliage lifespan; in fact, Pyrus calleryana chanticleer buds and flowers much earlier than any other large deciduous tree and holds on to its lovely rich dark ovate green leaves throughout the year until the latter part of November. This Pyrus has even been known in mild winters to hold on to its cover even in December which can trick people into thinking it’s a large mature evergreen tree. Once this ornamental tree reaches the darker months, then this tree has the potential to seriously light up the nursery with its rusty red, orange and yellow leaves. A minus cold snap can really enhance and bring the colours on.

A mature Pyrus also proves to be great value for money too. If you have a screening project in mind and you want to use some mature evergreens but your wallet just can’t quite stretch that far, then Pyrus calleryana Chanticleer should be a serious contender when considering an alternative at less than half the price of a traditional evergreen specimen at the same size.

So overall, if you are looking for a tree that has great shape, coupled with all year round interest and a practical quality, then you really don’t have to look any further than the Pyrus Calleryana Chanticleer!!

Cockspur Thorn – Crataegus lavallei & Crataegus lavallei Carrieri

A small handsome tree but tough as old boots!

Whatever the time of year, this pretty Hawthorn ticks all the boxes, whether you are looking for a specimen small garden tree to add a touch of grace and seasonal interest or if you are looking a tough tree that will tolerate the harshest of conditions look no further that the Cockspur Thorn. We offer this variety of Crataegus as a clear stem full standard tree, leaf will start to emerge from the bud late April/May broadly ovate in shape it gives the appearance of an apple leaf, it is attractively glossy deep green in colour it makes for an beautiful dark backdrop to showcase the masses of creamy white flowers that will appear in May. The flowers are larger than those of our native Thorn but still are excellent source of nectar for the bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Crataegus lavallei could be considered as semi-evergreen, the foliage is very long-lasting and may remain on the tree well into winter, it is not uncommon to see this tree in full green leaf in late November/December if planted in sheltered positions. In autumn, expect an abundance of decorative red/orange berries that remain long on the tree ideal for song birds to feast upon in mid-winter, again the berries contrasting with the dark green leaf offering a seasonal ‘Christmassy’ feeling when all other plants and trees have lost their leaves.
Crataegus lavaelleii Carrieri has been cultivated to produce a dense, compact head which makes it a great candidate for screening and privacy purposes as the tree may be planted relatively close together to create a ‘mini’ raised hedge above a standard garden fence. Easy to maintain and responds well to pruning this fantastically robust little Hawthorn tree is tough enough to be planted in exposed, coastal, urban or landscape where soil conditions are poor, it can be planting in restricted areas or for instant impact plant in clusters in large planting schemes to encourage natural bird and bee-life.

Cornelian Cherry – Cornus mas

Bring some gold to mid winter.

A stunning variety of Dogwood, quite often overlooked in general planting schemes which is a shame as this wonderful Cornus has so much to offer! Here at Barcham we grow this as either feathered, half standard or as full standard, whichever way you choose Cornus mas will make a real statement in late winter when the golden/yellow flowers erupts from the twigs in a riotous profusion, lifting the whole garden from its wintering slumber and reminding us, Spring is just around the corner. Team Cornus Mas with Himalayan Birch (Betula utilis Jacquemontii) and under-plant with snowdrops, aconites, primroses and hellebores to create a wonderful winter garden of your own.

The typical ‘Dogwood’ leaf appears in April, drooping in large clusters from short stems, the foliage is bright fresh green in summer and gives ways to a spectacular display of scarlet red maturing to deep burgundy and purple in Autumn. This little tree has one more surprise up its sleeve, it is not called the Cornelian Cherry for nothing – an abundance of Cherry-like fruits are produced in late summer; bright red in colour and sweet to the taste when ripe. Unlike the acid-loving American and Chinese Dogwoods, Cornus mas can be planted on well drained neutral soils including clay mix. Whether you plant Cornus mas as an architectural specimen or a small garden tree it will provide seasonal interest and exciting features and a whole year through. Can you think of another tree that is packed full of surprises and offers such great value for money? Let’s not over-look this little gem any longer, we can be provide Cornus mas in containers for year round planting at a good size for instant impact.

Ornamental Crabapple – Malus Evereste

A Crab with a bit more pinch!

Do you have a small planting space? A dull corner of the garden? A tree of interest that will encourage bees, butterflies and birdlife? If the answer is no; Well then, look no further than Malus Evereste, when this ornamental Crabapple flowers it will take your breath away! It is simply beautiful. From May, masses of pale pink buds give way to profusion of white blossom with a blush pink hue, quite persistent if the weather is favourable. The flower contrasts with the fresh green leaf to prolong the floral season after the Cherries have gone over. The ‘marble’ sized crab-apples (fruits) smother the twigs and stems in early autumn, a display of golden orbs with orange/red hues adorn the canopy and contrast with the golden yellow tints of the autumn leaf, the fruits hold well and are quite often devoured by hungry birds as the season progresses.
Malus Evereste matures to a broadly oval habit with a slight ascending branch structure so makes it very useful for urban planting schemes either as specimen, orchard and verge or avenue planting. Here at Barcham Trees we also offer Malus Evereste as a Pleached tree, which in effect looks quite stunning in Spring blossom and autumn fruit.

Like most Crab-apples this cultivation will flourish happily on well-drained soil including clay, a good performer, resistant to Apple Scab along with most other infectious pest and diseases that affects apples.

Posted by jules.baird